Soul searching in Osaka
Tourists pose for a snapshot
(Mainichi Japan) January 15, 2011
Osaka, the third largest city in Japan after Tokyo and Yokohama, boasts a long history of economic prosperity. It is the most important metropolis in western Japan, often contrasted with Tokyo in the east. Before the modernization of Japan, Osaka used to be called "the kitchen of the nation," reflecting its status as the center of the rice trade. The track record of excellence continued well into recent history. The Osaka Expo held in 1970, for example, is still regarded as the epitome of the postwar growth of Japan.
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In short, Osaka is a city difficult to avoid when one visits Japan. However, for some strange reasons, it seems that Osaka is not necessarily "on the map" when a visitor from abroad considers the itinerary for a Japan visit. This is an interesting enigma and needs some explanation, considering what a charming city Osaka actually is.
Recently, I had a chat with the public relations manager of an internationally recognized hotel in central Osaka. She said, with a hint of well-deserved pride, that its guests included many people from abroad. She then went on to say, however, that these people typically use the hotel as a "base" to explore Kyoto and Nara, two ancient capitals of Japan. "After all, these cities are just an hour's drive," she explained, with a broad smile. "But then, what about Osaka?" I asked her rather inquisitively, forgetting for a moment to keep my polite stance. "Well," she said, "these visitors from abroad hardly know what to see in Osaka."
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Her reply came as a shock to me, albeit admittedly somewhat expected. Although I was born and raised in Tokyo, which many people in Osaka regard as the archrival, I have always been an admirer of this western city, being enchanted by its deep and rich culture during my occasional visits. It seems to be true that the charm of Osaka is yet to capture the international imagination, dwarfed by its more glamorous neighbors: Kyoto, Nara, and perhaps even Kobe.
Osaka is not perfect in its public relations performance. However, I am pleased to say that Osaka is famous, at least within the nation, for a lucrative and rapidly growing trade: laughter.
Osaka is beyond any argument the "capital of laughter" in Japan. Many successful comedians come from this city. Typically, they make their name in their native town first, and becoming sufficiently successful, move to the much more rewarding Tokyo market. Some critics maintain that by "migrating" to Tokyo, the quality of comedy suffers. Such a comment demonstrates people's pride in the sense of humor, Osaka style.
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It is not easy to appreciate the Osaka style of comedy unless you have a sufficiently good command of the Japanese language. However, the vibrant life and quick mind behind the mirth can be appreciated while walking on an ordinary Osaka street.
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A good sense of humor comes with the ability to get to the point quickly. In Osaka, it is easy to have a nice meal without much fuss. The prices tend to be easy on your purse. One of the gibes that people in Osaka often say is that the Tokyoites are too pompous and authoritarian when it comes to judging life's pleasures. It is certainly true that residents of Tokyo make much of a Michelin star, whereas you would go for the substance in Osaka, regardless of what the authorities say.
One of my favorite pastimes in Osaka is to walk along the street at night, admiring the colorful neon signs and looking for a place to eat. Unless you are very fussy, a reservation is not necessary. Searching is easy, and any restaurant you casually walk into would provide a nourishing and tasty meal. Osaka thus makes you a very relaxed person.
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The sheer honesty and intensity of emotion you encounter on the street would also make you an honest and intense person. In Osaka, you can search your soul. (By Kenichiro Mogi, neuroscientist)
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